It’s been a little bit since by last blog post. The lull was expected because when you first arrive you’re wide-eyed and excited to share your new found insight but eventually you slip into a routine and for various reasons, are less inclined to blog about what’s going on.
I’ll be honest, outside of an club MCing gig on Halloween and a few meetings, things have been real slow for the past two weeks. My roommate was back in the States and I was alone in Beijing by myself, with a extremely short list of numbers to call and basically had no one to talk to. I’m not enrolled in any sort of school right now or into watching movies so I’ve had a lot of time to think and reflect on the things I’ve seen, my own life, the lives of those around me etc. I’ve mostly been eating alone, which has it pros and cons (more cons) but it does allow you to let your mind wander deeper than usual.
For anyone who’s fairly intellectual and has the time to think about social inequity, welfare, justice, or pursue any other anthropological inclination China can be an absolute brain-twister. The country is experiencing the fastest large-scale economic growth in the history of the world and it’s truly incredible to witness it – provided you have the opportunity to step back for a second and let it sink in. There are people who 40 years ago were digging ditches in the countryside as part of a re-education camp who have now amassed billions of dollars in wealth for themselves and their relatives/friends with the promise of more to come. I mean…where they do that at?
Most people have been to places with tremendous wealth. LA, NY, SF, HK (all top 10 cities in terms of # of billionaires, and I expect both Beijing and Shanghai to be on that list within 10 years) and they all have the full spectrum of wealth but nowhere does it seem more obvious than here in China (Beijing, Shanghai in particular but every major city). It’s just so visible because you see a recent migrant selling an onion pancake for $0.35 right outside of the D&G flagship store as heirs to various ministries/industries walk by. Now in NYC, you might occasionally see people pull up in chauffeured Maybach to wait in line for the halal cart on 53rd and 6th but you know the family who runs those carts easily earn enough to live a 1st world lifestyle.
There’s about 900 million people in a country of 1.3 billion who have yet to see any fruits of the explosive growth, and work for less than $1 an hour in a city that is more expensive to live in than New York (for an equivalent lifestyle).
I went to a Taiwanese restaurant whose clientele were well-heeled locals, overseas Chinese (heard a lot of HK Cantonese and Taiwanese Mandarin spoken), and foreigners, and was served by female servers who were all required to have androgynous David Bowie-like haircuts (which unsurprisingly, does not make you want to order more). Or yesterday, I went to a Chinese chaunr spot (bbq skewers) where despite having tons of meat around, the staff would eat primarily white rice and pure flour dumplings (mantou) for their dinner. This isn’t anything new to me to anyone else, but if you get a chance to sit and let it marinate it can be quite jarring. But I suppose it isn’t too different from the roaring 1920′s in America. Everything is developing at a breakneck speed and there is construction everywhere you turn. There is construction going on 24/7 outside of my window and a small older community right next to my high-rise apartment that is soon to be torn down.
To be completely honest, it really took me a 3rd trip to China to even begin to realize what this all means. I always read about it and been around it but it’s just wild to sit and think about it (and be at a stage in your life where you actually care). They say you don’t start to become a true adult until you’re about 25 and being 24, that sounds about right. You’d have to be here to see it all. There’s construction on every single corner, and it’s even crazier in the interior cities.
If I was 35 and some sort of real estate developer, my eyes would pop out of my head everyday. But I’m 24 and interested in entertainment/media so it’s very very easy for me to gloss over the magnitude of what I’m seeing, and I do all the time. And I don’t blame any young people or just people in general for not catching it, if you don’t have the proper lens/mindset to focus and process (which I am only now starting to develop) what you’re seeing it’d be easy to miss it. You get caught up energy on the streets and in the $0.50 Tsingtao’s or street food that is 1/5th of the price of whatever they’re charging back home for dumplings and noodles.
I’ll admit, some of the shock and awe is due to being from America, where the median income of highest earning state is less than double that of the lowest earning state (NJ @70k and Mississippi @37k). That’s very good large-scale equality (although the income disparity is growing at a dangerous rate, it’s still one of the best in the world). It’s compounded by being from Seattle, where there is very little poverty in comparison with other major cities in the US and world. Also, America has already seen much of it’s large-scale development already take place. There aren’t any skylines being propped up anywhere anymore. We’re just trying to maintain/plateau, and some would argue we’re just trying to slow the bleeding and eventual decline.
The average income in Beijing and Shanghai is about $8,000 USD per year compared to the national $2,000 USD average. So you can see the discrepancy between the urban and rural areas. Much of the development in China’s coming years will be driven by 2nd to 4th-tier cities (basically the cities you’ve never heard of before and then some) although the Western media will naturally gravitate towards reporting Beijing and Shanghai.
Also, people have been asking me what I’m going to do now that I’ve got a rough picture of what the entertainment prospects are in China. I’ll let you know soon enough.